A white man clutching a brown paper bag stands in the dirt-and-gravel lot that fronts Jones Bar-B-Q Diner in the Arkansas Delta town of Marianna. Grease splotches the bag, a stain that envelops the bottom and flares up the sides.
John T. Edge, THE OA's food columnist and our guest editor for the Southern food issue, visits a group of African-American farmers in Alabama who are reclaiming their land through a collective strength.
In 1995, when the late Larry Brown first published the essay "Billy Ray's Farm" in THE OXFORD AMERICAN about his son's farm in Lafayette County, Mississippi, he was both realistic and optimistic about the challenges of farm life. He could not have known that one day his friend, the renowned chef John Currence, would open Big Bad Breakfast, a new kind of diner featuring local ingredients, including dairy products from Billy Ray's heifers. John T. Edge recently visited Billy Ray and his milking cows at the Brown Family Dairy.
My Cheesy Passion A Pilgrimage From Rat Trap to Sweet Home.
by John T. Edge
