Dwight Garner of the New York Times visits the legendary Greenbrier resort in West Virginia to check out its recent attempts to modernize and attract a new breed of traveler.

Founded in 1778, the Greenbrier is a throwback not only to traditional Southern culture, but to colonial British culture.

A new owner, multimillionaire coal baron Jim Justice, is trying to inject some energy by bringing country music concerts, PGA tour stops, and a casino to the historic property.

As Garner notes, the new attractions are creating some "cognitive dissonance."

A casino at the Greenbrier? That’s like learning Barbara Bush has decided to get a tattoo on her lower back.

This Greenbrier paradox encompasses the struggle between the old South and the new South and its attending conflicts of class and culture -- all in service to the bottom line.  Jim Justice would argue that his reforms are the dying lady's only hope; others might contend that he is hastening her demise.