Magazine


Issue 49, Spring 2005

Southern Food Vol. I — guest-edited by John T. Edge

“What should emerge from this bacchanal is a sense of how and why what we eat and drink matters.” — John T. Edge

Featuring a previously unpublished essay by Carson McCullers. “Odes” by Padgett Powell, Molly Giles, Donald Harington, Steve Almond, Yusef Komunyakaa, Joshua Foer, and more. Notes by Duncan Murrell and Pete Wells. Essays by Gary Hawkins, Lolis Eric Elie, David Ramsey, Barbara Ensrud, and more.

Other contributors include Debbie Fleming Caffery, Blair Hobbs, Jonathan Reynolds, Anne Mendelson, and others.







 

Columns & Departments

 

Guest Editor’s Box
A WORTHY CAUSE
Writing—and fighting—about food.
by John T. Edge

 

MESSAGES FROM THE FRONT
Cliff’s Meat Market, Squirrel hunting, and more
with Wells Tower, Keith O'Brien, Lawrence Wilson, John T. Edge, Jeff Baker 

 

Meditations
THE ENDURANCE OF SOUTHERN FOOD
by John Egerton

 

Meditations
SITTING DOWN TO EAT
by Bernard LaFayette, Jr.

 

Gone Off Up North
ONE MAN'S FRIED MEAT
by Roy Blount, Jr.

 

In Florida
SPANISH DIXIE 
by Diane Roberts

 

Field Notes
ANIMAL FARMING 
by Pete Wells

 

Field Notes
PIG SINS: A LOVE STORY
by Duncan Murrell

 

Field Notes
STRANGE FRUIT
by Ben Phelan

 

Meditations
FREE OKRA
by Siddhartha Mitter

 

Sense of Place
SUGARCANE HARVESTING (SOUTHWEST LOUISIANA) 
photographs by Debbie Fleming Caffery

 

Horticulture
DEVIL’S CLAW
by William Woys Weaver

 

The Future
HOLA, ARKANSAS!
by Edward Carpenter


In South Carolina
LOWCOUNTRY GOLD RUSH
by John Martin Taylor


Cookbooks
HAUTE CLEMENTINE
by Sara Roahen


Cookbooks
THE BLACK PRESENCE
by Lolis Eric Elie


Writing on Writing
GLOSSY SOUTH
by Anne Mendelson


Writing on Writing
EDIBLE COMPLEX
by Jonathan Reynolds


Writing on Writing
FAULKNER’S TASTE FOR WINE
by Barbara Ensrud


Dealer’s Choice
THE OTHER APPETITE
by Hal Crowther


The Moviegoer
JUST ONE MORE
(Larry Brown, 1951–2004)
by Gary Hawkins


The Moviegoer
PUTTING A BOTTOM UNDER IT
by Tom Rankin


Southern Scenes
MARSHALL, NORTH CAROLINA
photograph by Debbie Fleming Caffery

 


 

Features

 

COOKS IN THE KITCHEN
Celebrity Chefs Reveal Their Southern Food Passions
interviews by Emily Witt

 

THE GREAT EATERS OF GEORGIA
A Previously Unpublished Essay
by Carson McCullers

 

GOOD TIMES
by Lewis Nordan

 

THROUGH THE PAST, (SORT OF) DARKLY
by Paul Reyes

 

SOME LIKE IT EXTRA HOT
Adventures in masochistic dining at Prince's Hot Chicken Shack
by David Ramsey

 

EVERYBODY LOVES THE COLONEL
by Silas House
How fried chicken saved my family.

 


 

Odes

 

ICE 
by Padgett Powell


ARKANSAS EATS 
by Molly Giles


CHICKEN & DUMPLINGS 
by Donald Harington


FIGS 
by Eugene Walter


MANNA 
by Andrew Hudgins


COTTON CANDY 
by Steve Almond


LOWCOUNTRY BOIL 
by James Alan McPherson


RACCOON 
by Yusef Komunyakaa


NEW ORLEANS HAMBURGERS 
by Brett Anderson


BOILED PEANUTS 
by Michael Griffith


YOUR DEKALB FARMERS MARKET
by Joshua Foer


HANGOVER CURES
by George Singleton


BUTTERMILK
by John Fleer


CHICKEN-FRIED STEAK
by Dennis Covington


FEEDING STRAYS
by George Kirius


RAW MEATS
by Dr. Sammy Ray 
(as told to Robb Walsh)


PRAISE WINE
by John Simpkins

 


 

Poetry

 

UNFILLED DESIRE
by Andrew Hudgins

 

OTIS, HIS FORBIDDEN ’CUE: HELOTES, TEXAS
by Jake Adam York

 

FALLING FOR MY HUSBAND
by Blair Hobbs

 

ASPARAGUS
by Marck L. Beggs

 


Cover: "Stop and Eat" by Allison V. Smith